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Find available car auctions near you and how you can join
You want to find car auctions near you and join them with confidence.
This guide explains types of car auctions, where to find them, how to register, how to verify cars, how to bid, and what to do after you win.
Follow these steps to buy smarter and avoid costly surprises.
Types of car auctions
- Public auctions — open to anyone.Dealer-only auctions — require a dealer license or a broker.Online car auctions — bid from your phone or computer.Salvage auctions — insurance-damaged cars.Repossession and fleet auctions — cars from banks, rental companies, and fleets.
- Government, police, and municipal auctions — seized or surplus vehicles.
Each type has its own rules, buyer fees, and title practices. Know which auction type fits your goals before you register.
Where to find car auctions
Major national platforms:
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- Copart, IAA (Insurance Auto Auctions), Manheim, Adesa, GovDeals, and eBay Motors.
Fleet and rental sales:
- Enterprise Car Sales, Hertz Local Fleet Sales, and local rental outlets.
Local sources:
- City, county, and state surplus pages; police department and sheriff office listings; local auction houses; community boards and classified ads.
Search tips:
- Google [your city or county] vehicle auction or [city] surplus vehicle auction.Use platform location filters and third‑party directories that aggregate regional sales.
- Cross-check third‑party listings against the auction’s official site to confirm lot numbers, dates, and start times.
If you cannot attend in person, prioritize auctions that offer live online bidding.
How to choose auctions to follow
- Pick two or three auctions and attend one as a spectator first to learn pacing and bidding behavior.Compare rules and fee schedules (deposits, buyer fees, online bidding fees) — fees can change whether a car is a deal.Join local forums and social groups where regular buyers share tips, lot numbers, and warnings.
- If you plan frequent buying or need dealer-only access, consider a dealer license or hire a licensed broker.
How to register and what you’ll need
- Register online or at the yard: name, phone, email, address, and often a government ID.Business buyers: upload business license or resale certificate.Deposits: many platforms require a refundable deposit (credit card hold or wire).Payment methods: wire transfer, cashier’s check, or credit card (cards often have processing fees).Pickup requirements: ID, proof of payment, and sometimes notarized authorization if someone else removes the car.
- Removal windows: know days allowed for pickup; daily storage fees apply after the window.
Always read the auction’s terms and conditions before bidding.
Use VIN extraction to verify cars before you bid at a car auction
The VIN is your key to a vehicle’s history. Never bid without it.
- Find the VIN in the listing or photos; if missing, request it or skip the lot.VIN extraction: copy the VIN and run it through NHTSA (recalls), NICB (theft/total loss), and paid services like Carfax, AutoCheck, or VinAudit for detailed history.
- Use OCR apps to read VINs from photos if necessary.
VIN reports reveal title brands (salvage, flood, rebuilt), accident history, number of owners, and service records. Use this before you bid at any car auction.
How to check lot details and photos quickly
- Confirm lot number, VIN, mileage, title status, sale date, and location.Look for multiple clear photos: exterior gaps, paint mismatch, interior water lines, deployed airbags, and engine bay condition.Read listing notes carefully (runs, cranks, unknown title).Verify removal location — some lots require pickup from satellite yards or ports (affects transport cost).
- If photos or notes are insufficient, request more images or a third‑party inspection.
Spotting damage and title problems before you bid
- Exterior clues: uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint, bent frame rails.Interior clues: water stains, mold, cut dash (airbag replacement), heavy wear inconsistent with reported mileage.Engine bay: heavy corrosion, leaks, cracked hoses.Title brands: salvage, flood, rebuilt, or title not present are red flags for registration and insurance.
- Liens: check state DMV and title history for outstanding liens.
Walk away from cars with major structural damage, clear flood evidence, odometer tampering signs, or missing essential title information.
Quick VIN/mileage and pricing tools
Free or low-cost resources:
- NHTSA (recalls), NICB (VINCheck), state DMV queries.Paid reports: Carfax, AutoCheck, VinAudit.Pricing guides: Kelley Blue Book, NADA, Edmunds.Auction sold-data pages and past sale results on platforms.
- OCR and inventory apps for extracting VINs and odometer readings from photos.
Record VIN, mileage, title status, and repair estimates in a note for each watched lot.
Read listings for starting bids and auction end times
- Extract the starting bid and exact end time (convert to your time zone). Low starting bids can attract many bidders; adjust your maximum accordingly.
- Use automated bidding tools or platform auto-bid features if you cannot watch live.If sniping, be aware some platforms extend the clock on late bids — confirm rules before attempting last-second bids.
- Set alarms 10 minutes and one minute before the end.
Estimate final price and spot bargains with sentiment
How to estimate:
- Find 3–5 comparable sold prices for the same model, year, trim, and mileage.Subtract repair costs; add buyer fees, taxes, registration, transport, and a buffer (10–20%).
- Your total is the maximum you can pay and still meet your goal.
Auctioneer and bidder signals:
- Hot lot signs: fast auctioneer pace, many watchers, repeated emphasis on positive features.Cold lot signs: slow bidding, long pauses, low watcher counts.
- Time of sale and recurring bidder usernames help predict competitiveness.
Lower your limit for hot lots and bid a little more assertively on cold lots if the math still works.
Step-by-step checklist for attending a car auction
- Research the lot: VIN, title, photos, and seller notes.Confirm registration and deposit requirements.Prepare payment method and bank details.Set your top bid based on comps and total-cost calculation.Watch one sale as a spectator first.If you win, pay within the auction’s window and arrange pickup/transport immediately.
- Inspect on pickup and document any undisclosed issues.
After you win: payment, paperwork, and transport
- Payment windows: typically 24–72 hours. Wire transfers are fastest.Keep receipts and confirmation emails.Title transfer: ask whether the title is released immediately or held until funds clear; if electronic, confirm your state’s process.Arrange transport promptly — flatbed for non‑running cars, open carriers for running vehicles.Inspect and photograph the car during loading and upon arrival.
- If you discover undisclosed damage, document, and file a dispute promptly following the auction’s process.
Disputes, deadlines, and recovery
- Know removal deadlines to avoid storage fees or relisting.If you find undisclosed damage, gather photos, timelines, and receipts; contact the auction and follow their claim process.Keep a paper trail of calls and emails; small claims court or consumer protection agencies can help if the auction refuses to cooperate.
- If a lien appears, ask the auction who is responsible — responsibility varies by sale.
Quick tips and common FAQs about car auctions
- Can anyone join a car auction? Many public car auctions are open to everyone, but dealer-only sales require broker or dealer access.Is online bidding safe? Yes if you verify listings, use platforms with deposit and verification systems, and confirm end time rules.Should I buy salvage cars? Only if you understand title repair rules, expect higher repair costs, and know resale limitations.
- How much should I add for buyer fees? Check each auction’s fee schedule; expect flat fees plus percentage-based charges. Always include them in your total-cost calculation.
Final note: start small, learn the process, and refine your checks. The more car auctions you watch and analyze, the better you’ll get at spotting real bargains and avoiding costly mistakes.